Why Pennsylvania pipes freeze
Winter in South-Central Pennsylvania is long enough to test every weak spot in a house. NOAA’s 1991–2020 climate normals put Harrisburg at roughly 111 nights a year at or below freezing, and York and Hanover around 120. Most of those nights are harmless. Pipes freeze during the stretches when it stays well below freezing for a day or more, especially with wind.
Water expands as it freezes. The ice itself rarely splits the pipe at the frozen spot; instead it pushes pressure toward the closed faucet, and the pipe bursts somewhere in between. That is why a pipe can split in a place that never looked frozen, and why leaks often appear only after it warms up.
Which pipes freeze first
- Pipes on exterior walls, especially under kitchen and bathroom sinks with cabinets that keep heat away.
- Lines through crawlspaces, unheated garages and attics.
- Hose bibs (outdoor faucets) and the short pipe behind them, if they weren’t shut off and drained in the fall.
- End units in rowhomes and corners of older houses with little insulation.
- Pipes near foundation vents, dryer vents or gaps where cold air gets in.
- Sprinkler and irrigation lines left charged.
If you think a pipe is frozen
Signs: a faucet gives only a trickle or nothing while others work, frost on an exposed pipe, or a section that feels much colder than the rest.
- Open the faucet the pipe feeds. Moving water helps it melt, and it gives melting ice somewhere to go.
- Warm the pipe gently, starting near the faucet and working back toward the frozen section. Use a hair dryer, an electric heating pad, a portable heater kept a safe distance away, or towels soaked in hot water.
- Keep going until full pressure returns, then check along the pipe for drips.
- Check other faucets. If one pipe froze, others may be close.
Never use an open flame
Don’t thaw pipes with a propane torch, kerosene heater or any open flame. It is a common cause of house fires, and overheating can damage the pipe and fittings. Keep electric heaters away from water and anything flammable.
If you can’t find or reach the frozen section, or it won’t thaw, call a plumber before it bursts.
If a pipe has burst
- Shut off the main water valve. In most homes with a basement it is on the front foundation wall where the service line enters, near the meter.
- Turn off electricity to wet areas from a dry spot. Don’t walk through standing water near outlets or the panel.
- Open faucets to drain the remaining water and pressure from the lines.
- If the split is on the hot side, turn off the water heater (power off, or gas to pilot).
- Move belongings, take photos, and start drying. Water inside ceilings and walls needs fans and dehumidifiers quickly to limit damage and mold.
Then call. Our emergency plumbing page explains what to tell the plumber and what to expect on the visit.
What a plumber does
- Finds every break. A pipe that split in one place may be weakened elsewhere; plumbers pressure-test the line after repair.
- Opens walls or ceilings where needed to reach the damage, ideally as small an opening as possible.
- Replaces the damaged section with copper, PEX or CPVC, depending on what is there and what makes sense. Older galvanized pipe is often replaced in a longer run rather than patched, because it tends to fail again next to the repair.
- Thaws any remaining frozen sections with professional equipment.
- Suggests fixes for the cause: insulation, rerouting a line away from an exterior wall, frost-free hose bibs, or heat cable on a vulnerable section.
Preventing it next winter
These steps follow the American Red Cross’s guidance and what plumbers see repeatedly in older Pennsylvania houses:
- Shut off and drain outdoor faucets in the fall, and disconnect hoses. Consider frost-free hose bibs.
- Insulate exposed pipes in crawlspaces, garages and basements with foam pipe insulation, and seal gaps where cold air reaches them.
- On very cold nights, let cold water drip from faucets served by exposed pipes, and open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls.
- Keep the heat on when you travel, set no lower than 55°F, and ask someone to check the house.
- Know where your main shutoff is and make sure it turns. Old valves that haven’t moved in years sometimes seize; a plumber can replace one before you need it.
- Use heat cable listed for pipe use on lines that can’t be moved or insulated well, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
How different pipe materials handle freezing
The pipe in your walls changes both the risk and the repair.
| Material | Common in | How it behaves when frozen |
|---|---|---|
| Galvanized steel | Many pre-1960 homes | Rigid and often corroded inside; tends to split at threaded joints, and nearby sections are often weak too |
| Copper | Most homes from the 1950s on | Splits along the pipe, usually as a long, narrow crack |
| CPVC | Some 1980s–2000s homes | Becomes brittle in cold; can crack at fittings |
| PEX | Most newer work | Stretches and tolerates expansion better, but fittings can still fail and it is not freeze-proof |
If your house still has galvanized supply pipe, a freeze is often the moment to ask about replacing the vulnerable run rather than patching one split. Our page on water line replacement covers the line coming in from the street.
Signs of a hidden burst
Not every burst announces itself with water on the floor. Watch for:
- A water meter that keeps moving when nothing is running.
- A sudden drop in pressure at several fixtures.
- The sound of running water inside a wall or ceiling.
- Damp drywall, bubbling paint or a ceiling stain below a bathroom or an exterior wall.
- A spike in the next water bill.
If you suspect a hidden leak after a cold snap, shut off the main and call; leak detection explains how plumbers find water inside walls without opening more than they need to.
Before you leave the house in winter
A long weekend away during a cold snap is when most of the worst damage happens, because nobody notices the leak for days.
- Leave the heat on, no lower than 55°F, and replace the thermostat batteries before you go.
- Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls.
- Make sure outdoor faucets are shut off from inside and drained.
- Ask someone to check the house every day or two, and show them where the main shutoff is.
- For longer trips, consider shutting off the main valve and draining the lines by opening the lowest faucet. If you have a boiler or a fire sprinkler system, ask a plumber first, because those systems need water.
- A smart leak sensor or automatic shutoff valve can send an alert or close the main if it detects water.
After the repair
Burst pipes cause water damage that a plumber doesn’t fix. Drying walls and floors, removing wet insulation and checking for mold is a restoration job. If your homeowners policy covers sudden pipe bursts, photos, the plumber’s invoice and a note of the cause help the claim.
If water was off for a long time or the line was opened, run cold water at each faucet for a few minutes before using it.
Frozen pipe questions
How long does it take for pipes to freeze?
It depends on how cold it is, wind, insulation and whether water is moving. Exposed pipes in unheated spaces can freeze within hours in a hard cold snap; well-protected ones may never freeze.
Should I leave all my faucets dripping?
Only those served by pipes that are exposed or on exterior walls, and only during severe cold. A slow drip of cold water is enough.
My pipe thawed and isn’t leaking. Am I fine?
Probably, but check along the pipe over the next day. Cracks sometimes show up only once full pressure returns.
Does homeowners insurance cover burst pipes?
Many policies cover sudden bursts but may deny claims if the house was left unheated. Read the policy wording and call your insurer early.
Can PEX pipe freeze?
PEX can freeze, but it tolerates expansion better than copper or galvanized pipe and is less likely to split. It still needs to be protected.
Related: leak detection, water line replacement, water heater repair, drain cleaning, sump pumps, sewer line repair, how calls work and the areas we cover.